Uluru (Ayers Rock) OK, we'll get this out the way, right up front -- we did climb the Rock. We were, as we should be, well aware that the local aboriginals -- the traditional owners to whom Uluru has special cultural significance -- do prefer that people do not climb. For them, such a climb was reserved for men and the initiation ceremony. Opinion recognised, and respected. Many do not climb Uluru for this reason. However, Uluru -- the Rock -- has special cultural significance for all Australians. Beyond being a highly recognised landmark, the Rock is an icon in a nation that tolerates only a passing respect for such weepy symbolism. For many, visiting, and climbing, Uluru is something they feel they will eventually do. It says much about the cultural development of this nation when Australians, of so many different ethnic and cultural groups, have ceased to regard central Australia as "the dead heart" and come to feel it as a living and irreplaceable part of our heritage. Sure we are the latecomers to the landscape, but we too had our reasons for visiting and for respecting the place. Not the same reasons, but valid ones just the same. Having said that, as Australians we felt in a peculiar way as we stood on Uluru and looked to the horizons. Unselfconsciously, we were talking in hushed voices; rather overwhelmed by the sight. It truly is remarkable, without us quite knowing how to remark on how we both felt. We have seen and done much in all our travels, but few things have left us in such awe; we were grateful for the experience.

From Uluru a unique perspective can be had on Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), some 40 km distant. The day was hazy, but the bald purple mounds appear clearly toward the horizon. Kata Tjuta is unsurprisingly also a place of great cultural significance to the traditional owners of Uluru. Should you decide, and can, climb to the top; the views are stunning and the continent of Australia stretches out before you in every direction.

At sunset it is virtually impossible not to get a "postcard" photograph of Uluru. This one took all of 15 seconds, because we simply couldn't tolerate another minute of the heaving crowds pouring from the tour buses or alighting from yet-another Britz rental campervan. Having spent a peaceful day walking up and around the entire Rock and viewing it from every angle we thought it time to take our leave and retire to a few cold beers. Unfortunately, those people and their whinging children eventually followed us back to Yulara Camp Ground. There's never a dingo around when you need one.

And if you wanted to know what sort of sunset would light up Uluru like that, here it is. Not long after snapping the above, Grant turned and took this. The sunsets are one of the real pleasures of central Australia. Because the country is so flat, the sun seems to take forever to disappear. As it does, the harshness and heat of the day fades into the most delightful of evenings. That so, now it's time to grab a chair and open a beer.

We stayed at the Camp Ground at Yulara for the duration. Relatively expensive at $25 per night at an unpowered site; the grounds are pleasant, with a pool, and have free gas-fired bbq and outdoor stoves next to the shelter area. In that shelter, they also have a fridge you can use. Other options range from $40pp rooms sleeping 4 people at Pioneer Resort, right through to 5-star luxury at an eye-watering $1700 per night. Your agent may be able to get a better deal as part of a package, but even a standard room at Pioneer was overheard at a walk-in rate of $210 per night. There are a number of eating options about, though none of them are a bargain, and the Pioneer has the only "real" bar. Despite this being largely outdoors (but under cover), nearly all the bar area is non-smoking. A total pain in the proverbial arises if you wish for a few beers or a bottle of wine to take back to the campsite for dinner. The only place selling takeaways is the Pioneer, and they will only sell 6 beers and one bottle of wine to any person on each day. Not only that, you will need to present a ticket from your hotel or the campsite proving to them that you are currently staying at the resort and each person will need to front the bar for their ration -- you cannot go in an buy on behalf of the rest of your party. Annoying, uncivilised and downright unAustralian.

	Explore the rest of Grant & Dale's Outback holiday
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